In life we learn that some things are worth holding on to so that others can enjoy them as well. Thirteen years ago, Kauai photographer and surf historian Timothy DeLaVega took that life lesson to heart, after literally holding on to a rare piece of Hawaiian history.
It was a small, old book comprised of six leaves and 12 pages. The Surf Riders of Hawaii, written by A.R. Gurrey Jr., was about eight-by-eight inches, made of heavy woven paper on which were mounted eight gelatin-silver photographs of Waikiki surfers.
These incredible images of waves in the Hawaiian Islands were taken by Clark Little, the number one photographer of surf. He is dedicated to photographing the waves and has published a selection of his best..
There were clouds of sand ten feet high and I’m standing there. I’m holding on to my camera and my trigger as long as I can. Then I have to jump into the cloud of sand to try to get out of danger’s way.
White tumultuous water Clark Little/SWNS
"Faith is not about everything turning out OK; Faith is about being OK no matter how things turn out.”
Ninety-nine years ago, Duke Kahanamoku competed in his first Olympics in Stockholm, Sweden. He won the gold medal in the 100-meter freestyle swim and a silver medal with the relay team. He returned to the Olympics in 1920, 1924 and 1932, winning three gold and two silver medals.
But what did he do after the Olympics?
The head of Union Oil in Hawaii asked Duke whether he wanted a job. “I said heck yes, I’m not too proud to pump gas. I did it because it was something to do,” Kahanamoku said in 1965.
His service station career didn’t last long. Duke found his calling and ran for sheriff of the City and County of Honolulu in 1935.
He served 13 terms and then was appointed as the city’s official greeter and ambassador of good will after that.
Come and enjoy the three-week long 4th Annual Honolulu Surf Film Festival on Oahu, from July 8 - 31 at the Doris Duke Theatre, featuring 22 surf films, including 16 that will be shown in Hawaii for the first time.
Even if you’re not a surfer, you will be amazed at the heart-stopping footage of competitive surfers taking on the island’s North Shore winter waves! You will also find a range of films including goofy surfing adventures to a sobering probe of environmental issues tied to the surf culture.
PO‘IPU — Lunch can wait! Seeing two surfers struggling a few hundred yards off the coast of Prince Kuhio Beach, Kaua‘i resident Jesse Uemura abandoned the sandwich he was eating Wednesday afternoon and dove in after them…
Exhausted, the two visitors both thanked Uemura for his help.
“You saved our lives,” Ken Burgess recalled the men telling Uemura flatly after they were all safe and sound back on shore.
Dixie and Ken Burgess/Contributed photos Jesse Uemura brings in one of two visiting surfers he rescued Wednesday afternoon at PK’s.
Surfer/ musician Mike Young was heartbroken because his vintage Takamine guitar was stolen from his truck …
Young’s prized possession was anonymously returned. ‘Aloha is there,’ he said. ‘My baby is back.’ The guitar had been previously owned by Peter Moon and the late Mike Joao. Also taken — and returned — were two custom surfboards. Young said no questions were asked, he was just happy to have his belongings back, especially his guitar, and thanked everyone who helped to recover them.
Kelly Slater will be honoured by the Huntington Beach, Surf City USA, on the 21st June 2011. The ten-time world surfing champion will be presented with “Key to the City”, in 101 Main Street.
Slater has conquered the U.S. Open of Surfing, held in Huntington Beach, in 1996, and has always been welcome in the Californian city, where he has a large fanbase.
The surf champion has already received the “Key to the City” of his local town, Cocoa Beach, Florida, and of San Clemente. Kelly Slater is now coming to Surf City Nights, a weekly street fair, to be honoured by the Surf City USA.
The Floridian surf legend will get honours from the hands of Mayor Joe Carchio. Slater was born on February 11th, 1972, and is the youngest (at age 20) and the oldest surfer (at age 38) to win an ASP World Tour title.
Also, Kelly became the first surfer ever to be awarded two perfect scores for a total 20 out of 20 points under the ASP two-wave scoring system. He is of Irish and Syrian ancestry.